Corsa dei Ceri: Gubbio’s timeless race of tradition

Corsa dei Ceri: Gubbio’s timeless race of tradition

In the heart of Umbria, the medieval town of Gubbio bursts into fervent celebration each May 15th with the Corsa dei Ceri (or Festa dei Ceri). 

The Corsa dei Ceri has ancient origins, and the most accredited theory is that it dates back to 1160, the year of the death of the patron saint of the city S. Ubaldo. The saint in fact at that time was the Bishop of Gubbio and it is said to have saved the city from a terrible plague epidemic during the 12th century. 

Since then, the 15th of May is a fixed date for the people of Gubbio. Initially, the celebration provided a mystical procession with lights made of wax candles along the streets of the city to Mount Ingino (where the body of St. Ubaldo rests in the homonymous Basilica).

The wax sticks, offered by the guilds of Arts and Crafts, probably became so consistent in time that it was difficult to transport them and were replaced towards the end of '500 with three wooden structures, agile and modern, which - several times rebuilt - are, in their original form, have come down to our days. The date and almost the entire route of the festival has remained unchanged over time.

Far from a mere historical reenactment, today this event is a living testament to communal devotion, where the lines between past and present blur in a vibrant display of faith and unity.

Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio, Umbria, one of the most authentic Italian folklore festivals

“Ceri” and “Ceraioli”: key players of the celebration

The Ceri and the Ceraioli are the key players of this Italian traditional festival nowadays:

  • The Ceri are large wooden structures formed by two octagonal prisms superimposed and reinforced by an internal frame also made of wood and crossed by a board. This comes out with two pins called "timicchioni". The one below is attached to a support called "barella" (stretcher) that allows it to be carried on the people’s shoulder.

    The one above allows to fix on top three small statues representing the Patron Saints of the Corporations: S. Ubaldo (patron and protector of the city), S. Giorgio, and S. Antonio. These three parts are assembled together on the occasion of the May 15th Festival.

    During the year Ceri and “barelle” are kept in the Basilica of Sant'Ubaldo on top of Mount Ingino, while the statuettes of the Saints are preserved in the Church of S. Francesco della Pace. The Ceri are decorated on the evening before the Festival with golden flags with swallowtails in the upper part and golden tassels also, in the lower part, detached by the Ceraioli the morning of the rise of May 15;

  • Ceraioli are the real protagonists of the festival today, and every citizen of Gubbio can be a Ceraiolo. For the Eugubini (citizens of Gubbio) it is very important and a source of pride to bring the Ceri at least once in their lifetime.

    The membership of the Ceri was originally linked to the type of trade and passed on from father to son. Today the choice of the cero is free but in reality very conditioned by family traditions, especially those of fathers on male children, future ceraioli.

    The women, even having tasks of incitement and of ardent fan, do not take the Ceri. How many ceraioli are in each race is difficult to say, because, in addition to the tactical patterns and traditions, much is related to improvisation and running needs.

Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio, Umbria: program schedule

Festa dei Ceri takes place in Gubbio on May 15 of each year and, unlike many other Italian folklore traditions brought back to life after centuries of "lethargy", it has always been held from the death of Saint Ubaldo (May 16, 1160) onwards. 

The fact that it has been handed down to us without interruption for so many centuries is due to the popular nature of the festival, its originality, the passion with which every Eugubino lives from childhood. Of course, the festival has undergone some changes over the centuries, but they have not altered its original spirit. Like all popular creations, it is in fact the mirror of the people themselves and with it they live their historical and social changes. However, the spirit of the Eugubini towards the Festival, their attachment to the city and the Ceri has always been the same, unchanged over the centuries.

The program of the Festival takes place mainly on May 15, however, the festive atmosphere can be felt from the first Sunday of May, which is the prelude to the Festival, with the Ceri that are brought back to the city in a horizontal position descending from the Basilica of S. Ubaldo on top of Mount Ingino.

The Ceri used during Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio are long wooden candles with a particular shape, like 2 octagonal placed one above the other

The Race

On May 15th, after the blessing of the Bishop begins the long-awaited race, trembling, impetuous, dramatic as few in the world. Ceraioli and people are all one in the exaltation of those first moments when Captains, Bishops and Trumpeters on horseback precede the Ceri.

The captains of the previous year give the "green light". The crowd exults, bursts in a choral cry, compact, screaming in the Gubbio dialect "Via ch'eccoli" ("Here they come!). The tide opens up as if by magic to allow the passage of the Ceri running, well planted on the sturdy shoulders of the ceraioli.

The race winds through the narrow medieval streets, the Ceri swing fearfully, touching and often touching walls and windows. With great skill and years of experience, the ceraioli give the change in the race; they can prevent serious accidents, while slipping and often falling especially in case of rain. It is a test of great strength and skill to make the Cero run as vertically as possible avoiding "falls" and "hanging".

This is the victory, taking into account that there is no overtaking and that the Ceri arrive at the top of the mountain in the same order with which they started: Sant'Ubaldo, San Giorgio and Sant'Antonio. The route covered by the running Ceri is about 4 kilometers and 300 meters, starting from the Alzatella to the Basilica on top of the Mount.

There are some unwritten rules, but unshakable and strict. First of all, the order of the race is S. Ubaldo, S. Giorgio, S. Antonio.

The Ceri can not overtake themselves, if a Cero falls, the following Cero or Ceri must wait. The Ceri stops only at the established stops and must run as fast as possible. The goal of the celebration is closely linked to the honoring of the patron saint S. Ubaldo.

This is a tribute that the other two Ceri also recognize. The imperative of each ceraiolo is to contribute to the success of the race and compliance with the rules. Make a good impression, avoid hangings, falls and gaps, have a fast run, overcome possible difficulties, are the firm points of the "ceraiolo philosophy".

Visiting Gubbio during Corsa dei Ceri: some tips

Anyone who visits Gubbio in the whole month of May will find a city decorated with festivities, a dense climate of anticipation (in the days before the 15th) and joy. 

It is a period of dense ceraioli appointments for the Eugubini, considering that after the Festa dei Ceri (the real one) there are repetitions of the Festival for the different age groups, with smaller sizes according to age.

To experience the Festival close up, it is preferable to dress in comfortable clothing, sneakers and do not bring anything unnecessary. There are no tickets to purchase as it is completely free, however there are some unwritten rules for attending the Corsa without encountering any issue.

Gubbio, on 15 May, decorated with banners and tapestries of the colors of the three Ceri, is filled with the Festival. The Corsa is so engaging that you can not do without following the mass of ceraioli and people who move to follow the Ceri; but it is good to be careful and observe some rules of prudence.

During the race, you have to be careful because the Ceri, followed by an enthusiastic crowd, proceed at maximum speed on the city streets, and being in the middle of the Corsa would mean being overwhelmed. You need to realize that the Festa dei Ceri is a festival that Eugubini love and they feel it as their own, so try not to be intrusive in order not to turn a benevolent hospitality into an undiplomatic reception. 

The best option is to stay behind the Ceri and the crowd running, so you can experience the authenticity of this Umbrian tradition without risking getting caught in the middle and putting yourself in danger.

Where to Stay in Gubbio

Gubbio offers a range of accommodations to suit all tastes. When visiting Umbria, it’s great to experience nature and the countryside, opting for an immersive stay in an eco-resort or rustic agriturismo immersed in the green hills. However, while staying in Gubbio, you can choose a good apartment in the historic centre, or look for more comfort with a boutique hotel.

Hotels in Gubbio:

Agriturismi in Gubbio:

How to Get to Gubbio

Gubbio isn’t directly connected to Italy’s major train routes, which helps it retain its hidden gem status. Since you might be wondering how you can reach Gubbio: 

By Train & Bus

  • Nearest train stations: Perugia and Fossato di Vico
  • From there: regular buses or taxis can get you to Gubbio

By Car

  • From Perugia: 45 minutes
  • From Assisi: 1 hour
  • From Florence: about 2.5 hours

Continue Your Journey

Curious about other traditions of Umbria? Don’t miss our article on Calendimaggio di Assisi!

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