Discover Calendimaggio: Assisi's Medieval Festival Beyond the Tourist Trail
If you're craving an authentic Italian experience far beyond crowded piazzas and Instagrammable hotspots, set your sights on Assisi in early May.
This quiet Umbrian hill town transforms into a vibrant medieval stage during Calendimaggio, one of Italy's most enchanting and lesser-known festivals. Rooted in centuries-old tradition, this event immerses visitors in a bygone era's pageantry, rivalry, and folklore.
What Is Calendimaggio?
Calendimaggio is a historical reenactment festival held annually in Assisi, Italy, typically the first Wednesday through Saturday of May. It's a celebration of spring, medieval heritage, and civic pride, featuring lavish costumes, theatrical contests, music, and street performances.
Unlike the more commercialized events in major Italian cities, Calendimaggio offers an intimate and immersive glimpse into Italy's deep cultural roots. It's an ideal experience for travelers seeking meaningful local traditions and off-the-beaten-path adventures.
Today, just as it did centuries ago, Calendimaggio symbolizes:
- The triumph of spring over winter
- The power of community and shared history
- The beauty of chivalry, music, and art in medieval society
The Origins of Calendimaggio
The origins of Calendimaggio are ancient, tied to the customs of the Umbri (the region's earliest inhabitants from which the region takes its name) who celebrated spring as a joyful return to life after the harshness of winter.
It was a time of dancing, singing, and drinking the previous year’s wine. Poetry was recited to honor the season of flowers, and music filled the streets. Even St. Francis of Assisi, as a young man before his dramatic conversion and renunciation of his possessions, was said to excel at composing dance poems and songs for these celebrations.
Medieval Assisi divided: power struggles and violent conflict
In the 13th and 14th centuries, Assisi reached a period of great cultural and political splendor, marked by artistic innovation and civic growth, that also caused deep internal conflict. The city was split between two rival factions: Parte de Sopra and Parte de Sotto, representing different social and political allegiances, often aligned with the opposing forces of the Guelfs and Ghibellines. The families of Nepis (Parte de Sopra) and Fiumi (Parte de Sotto) were at the center of this tension.
This rivalry soon escalated into violent conflicts. The first known armed clash occurred on November 14, 1376, when Parte de Sotto (guided by Famiglia Fiumi) launched a surprise night attack. This was just one episode in a long series of vendettas, betrayals, and shifting power struggles. Yet even in these turbulent times, the spring celebration endured. The songs, serenades, and joy of Calendimaggio continued to echo through the streets, briefly replacing the noise of battle with the sound of hope and renewal.
From tradition to modern revival
This enduring popular tradition was eventually formalized in 1954, when the city, united in spirit, revived the ancient rite in its current form. Since then, Calendimaggio has become a ritualized competition where Assisi's two historic parts challenge each other not with weapons, but with artistry, music, medieval games and historic splendor—keeping alive the soul of the town, forged in both conflict and community.
Assisi's version is unique because the rivalry between the two factions, today called Nobilissima Parte de Sopra and Magnifica Parte de Sotto, is still very much alive today. Each side has its own distinct colors—blue for Parte de Sopra, and red for Parte de Sotto, its own emblem and its own district.
In fact, the town’s residents are still often associated with one of the two, either through family heritage or simply by where they live. Parte de Sopra (we can literally translate it to "the top half") corresponds to the area of Assisi above the central Piazza del Comune, while Parte de Sotto ("the bottom half") includes the lower part of town.
Interestingly, the piazza itself serves as a neutral zone, a symbolic and physical meeting point where the festival’s performances and competitions unfold.
How the Festival Works Today
Calendimaggio spans four intense days, typically held on the first Wednesday through Saturday of May, excluding May 1st. Traditionally, before May 1st, which is a Publich Holiday in Italy, each Parte hosts the Cena Propiziatoria, a festive dinner held right in the streets of their own district. It’s meant to bring good luck and positive energy ahead of the Calendimaggio festivities. This flexible scheduling avoids overlap with national holidays and ensures full participation from locals and visitors alike.
The experience begins with a deeply emotional ceremony known as the Benedizione dei Vessilli (Blessing of the Banners). This brief but poignant moment is the only religious element in an otherwise secular festival. Each Parte gathers in its sacred place: Parte de Sotto at the Basilica of San Francesco, and Parte de Sopra at the Cathedral of San Rufino. It is the final moment of quiet unity before the fierce but friendly rivalry begins.
From there, the festivities move to the Piazza del Comune for the Consegna delle Chiavi, where the mayor symbolically hands over the city's keys to the Maestro de Campo—the neutral arbiter of the competition. With this act, the festival officially begins.
The full Modern Program and Schedule
Each of the four days offers unique events that reflect the festival's blend of historical reenactment, theatrical competition, and communal pride:
Wednesday – The Keys and the Blessing
The festival officially begins with “La Consegna delle Chiavi”, the symbolic handover of the city’s power. But first, both factions seek spiritual focus.
- In the early afternoon, each Parte gathers for the Benedizione dei Vessilli—Parte de Sotto at the Basilica of San Francesco, and Parte de Sopra at the Cathedral of San Rufino. These intimate blessings are a mix of reverence and anticipation.
- Around 3:45 PM, the Campana delle Laudi (Bell of Praise) echoes through Assisi, calling all to gather. The city’s main square, Piazza del Comune, becomes the epicenter of celebration.
- The factions march in, the Maestro de Campo formally takes command, the Palio is returned, and the Inno del Coprifuoco is sung—a hauntingly beautiful medieval hymn. A flag-waving show follows before the cortei exit down Corso Mazzini.
Later that night, the first Scene di Parte brings the medieval city to life. This time, it’s Magnifica Parte de Sotto’s turn to transform its quarter into a fully immersive medieval world—no modern details, no distractions, only torches, shadows, and the past reawakened.
Thursday – Medieval Games and the Madonna Primavera
Thursday afternoon brings the Giochi di Sfida, a vibrant series of physical challenges between the factions:
- Crossbow competition
- Wooden sled race (corsa delle tregge)
- Tug of war
These are not just games; they're a serious competition. The victorious Parte earns the right to crown their Madonna Primavera, the symbolic queen of spring. She is chosen through a mix of fate and performance—paired with the best-performing archer from her team.
The spectacle concludes with a costumed procession through the streets, led by the newly crowned Madonna.
In the evening, Parte de Sopra stages its Scene di Parte—the second deep dive into a living, breathing medieval Assisi.
Friday – Spectacle and Tradition
Friday is a feast for the senses. It begins with the Calendimaggio dei Piccoli, a special edition of the festival dedicated to the children of Assisi—a reminder that this tradition is very much alive and passed down.
In the late afternoon, the Sbandieratori di Assisi (Flag Performers) take the stage, this year celebrating their 50th anniversary with a dynamic, colorful show.
As night falls, the long-awaited Corteo della Sera takes over. It’s called “La Tenzone”, the duel. Each Parte presents a procession rich with atmosphere, symbolism, fire jugglers, and burning constructions. It’s theatrical, haunting, and often called the most visually powerful moment of the entire festival.
Saturday – The Final Duel
Saturday is all about resolution. It’s “La Sfida” (the challenge).
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At 4:00 PM, the cortei return to Piazza del Comune, announcing their Bandi di Sfida with sharp words, irony, and noble flair.
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Costumes, banners, drums—everything is polished to perfection for the final historic parades.
That night, the atmosphere turns electric for “Il Canto”, the choral battle. Each Parte performs three pieces on a specially built acoustic stage, under the intense silence of a packed square. These aren’t casual songs—they’re composed and rehearsed for months.
After this musical climax, the public awaits as the jury deliberates. Until a few years ago, the verdict was given at late night (around 4am), however recently the schedule was changed and now the verdict is given earlier, around midnight, to allow both locals and visitors to fully enjoy this emotional time.
Finally, the Maestro de Campo returns to the square and proclaims, speaking the old dialect from Assisi (a version of Italian similar to that used by Dante Alighieri in the Divina Commedia):
"Popolo de Ascesi... assegniamo lo Palio de Calendimaggio alla parte de..."
The winning Parte is awarded the coveted Palio, concluding the festival with applause, emotion, and renewed anticipation for next year. Also, after the verdict has been said, usually the winning party starts celebrations in their own district that traditionally lasts until the morning after.
The Palio: More Than a Trophy
The Palio is a hand-painted banner awarded to the faction that accumulates the most points across three categories:
- Historical parade quality
- Musical and theatrical performances
- Authenticity and spirit of reenactments
A panel of expert judges, including historians, musicians, and costume specialists, evaluates the events. The announcement of the winner on Saturday night is met with cheers, tears, and fireworks.
Highlights: Music, Parades, and Medieval Spectacle
What makes Calendimaggio truly magical is its immersive atmosphere. This isn't just a series of shows—it's a full-bodied experience where every street corner hums with life.
Medieval Reenactments
Actors portray merchants, nobles, peasants, and knights. Expect to see:
- Dramatic scenes of courtly love
- Mock battles and knightly duels
- Everyday life in a 14th-century town square
The performances are deeply researched and emotionally compelling—you'll forget it's the 21st century.
Music and Street Performances
Minstrels, drummers, and choirs fill the air with medieval melodies. Each faction crafts original compositions using period instruments:
- Lutes
- Flutes
- Drums
- Gregorian chant and folk songs
The music isn't just background—it's a scored narrative that brings each faction's story to life.
Parades and Torch Processions
Don't miss the Saturday evening procession: candle-lit streets, dramatic shadows, and chanting choirs create a hauntingly beautiful ambience.
Daytime parades are no less impressive, showcasing hundreds of costumed participants marching in perfect synchronicity, led by standard-bearers and heralds.
The Taverns: Eat, Drink, and Be Medieval
Throughout Assisi, temporary medieval taverns open up during the festival, run by the two factions. Visitors can:
- Eat traditional Umbrian dishes
- Drink local wine and mead
- Sit at wooden tables under candlelight
- Enjoy spontaneous performances from costumed locals
Menus often include:
- Porchetta (roast pork)
- Zuppa di farro (spelt soup)
- Torta al testo (flatbread with cured meats or vegetables)
You're not just a spectator—you're invited to join in.
How to Watch Calendimaggio (Even from Afar)
Can't make it to Assisi in person? You can still witness the magic via Umbria webcams, which livestream key moments of the festival, including:
- Opening ceremonies
- Musical contests
- Torch processions
- The Palio announcement
Visit Umbria Webcam during the first week of May to get a front-row seat.
Tips for Visitors
If you're planning to attend in person:
- Book accommodations early – Assisi fills up fast
- Dress comfortably – cobbled streets and standing-room events
- Get a festival pass for reserved seating at performances
- Learn a few Italian phrases to engage more deeply with locals
Also, it’s important for you to choose the right stay. You don’t want to stay too far from Assisi, or you might need a car (and parking there it’s not easy), however, you probably don’t want to stay too close to where the competitions are held either, as it can get crowded and noisy.
The best option is to choose a hotel in the historic center within walking distance from Piazza del Comune, or an agriturismo outside the historic city walls but within a short taxi or bus ride to the entrance of the town.
Our suggestions:
- Hotel Windsor Savoia
- Asisium Boutique Hotel
- Hotel Porta Nuova
- Hotel La Terrazza
- Giotto Hotel & SPA
- Hotel Da Angelo
Why You Shouldn’t Miss Calendimaggio
Calendimaggio is more than a festival—it's a time capsule. It brings you into the heart of Assisi's soul, where history isn't just preserved, it's lived. For travelers yearning to experience Italy as Italians do—with depth, pride, and authenticity—this is your moment.
Instead of snapping another gelato selfie in Florence or fighting with the crowd in front of the Trevi Fountain, why not raise a goblet in a medieval tavern and cheer for your favorite faction under the torch-lit skies of Assisi?
Calendimaggio awaits!
Do you need more information on how to plan your visit to Assisi during the Calendimaggio festival? Don’t hesitate to contact us or send us a message on Instagram; and, while you are at it, follow us and subscribe to our newsletter to keep discovering more about Umbria!